One of the most useful things I have printed yet.
Rated best 3D printer in class by 3D Forged & Tom’s Guide.
I found it on Thingiverse.
QAV250 motor mount extensions – Various angles – Run 6″ props AND shift your COG forward or back.
First let me say that these are NOT tilted motor mounts to angle your motors forward. These are all flat extensions, but they’re angled in relation to the arm is either 0, 15, or 30 degrees. The 30 degree mounts are angled at 30 degrees in relation to the arms, which makes them perpendicular to the body. The straight extensions are just like they sound… they follow the angle of the arms. And the 15 degree mounts allow you to mount the motors 15 degrees forward or back. The pictures explain this better than my words can.
I haven’t seen anything like these available anywhere, and since testing has shown that they work pretty well, I figured others may benefit from these. I’m currently running perpendicular front mounts and 15 degree angled mounts in the rear. This shifts the COG back by about 10mm. I can now run larger batteries without putting more weight/strain on the rear motors. There are many options with these to allow you to shift your COG either forward or back.
Of course, you can also choose all 4 mounts of the same type… i.e., four straight mounts, or four 30* (perpendicular to body) mounts and run 6″ props WITHOUT shifting your COG.
There are TWO versions of each type. One includes an integrated motor guard, and the other one does not. I run the ones with motor guards and I imagine most people will do the same, but if for some reason you don’t want the guards, you have that option. These are 4mm thick and should be printed @ 100% infill. They are plenty stiff this way, and while they WILL break under very hard impacts, they tend to take the brunt of the force, which typically saves the carbon fiber arms. (Not always though! I broke an extension and the CF arm on my last outing when the quad dropped from about 30 feet straight onto concrete).
QAV250 motor mount extensions – Various anglesby adamky, published Jul 20, 2015
This retro-styled mini-bob is a simple design but it offers a lot of fun! Unfortunately I couldn’t make a video up to now but here are two videos of the original bob:
Choose your team, print and assemble your mini-bob, build your own bobsled run and share it with others: http://www.thingiverse.com/groups/bobsleigh-challenge
You also find a litte construction manual in the main-picture of the mini-bob. Beside the printed parts you need the following materials: glue, 8 screws (20 mm long; 3 x 16) and some weights (sinkers for fishing work great, or something else that’s heavy).
For the assembling take the following steps and compare the pictures:
Check out NC Hippy’s funny assembling video: https://youtu.be/31XsKs21dOs
There is also a top-part available in the files with no flag. If you want to choose a flag, print the normal top-part and the flag-base as well. Then choose one of the following team flags:
If a specific flag is missing and you want me to create one, or if you designed a new one and want me to link it in the description, just write a comment or a message.
TIP: Using an empty bottle makes the building of the bobsled run verry easy 🙂
Help creating new designs for the pilots (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1945717) or the bob and let me know if you want me to add them here.
Have fun and remember….don’t eat yellow snow
We designed this castle playset as a concept for demonstrating toy manufacturing at home using a 3D printer.
The set contains walls, towers, houses, characters, animals, and a myriad of different props. All parts are small enough to be 3D-printed in a build volume of 140 x 140 x140 mm.
The walls and towers fit together easily using a simple 3D-printable butterfly joint. You can make as many parts as you want to create your original castle layout!
Note: Please let us know if you have any suggestions for new objects in this kit. We will continue to expand this collection.
This project was created by Tim Wahlström in cooperation with the 3D-team at CreativeTools.se in Sweden.
I’ve added a fully assembled door bolt to print.
either complete or just the bolt itself.
I’ve included a reduced contact sliding bar version to help with prints that seem to be fused together, please let me know if this helps.
Supports not required
I’ve added two versions with improved support for the ball handle, the previous ones the ball appears to be distorted but not unusable.
If anyone prints these two with improved ball support, can you let me know if this fixes the problem, my printer is out of action for the next week or so.
Print at least 3 perimeters and at least 27% infill or higher.
I would recommend using a raft not a brim.
Don’t scale the assembled one down as the tolerances would be too close.
If your printer is like mine, the parts seem slightly stuck together when printed, then you should still be able to free it up.
I just put the front (the end furthest from the bolt pin) across the jaws of an open vice, so the path of the bolt is free to slide, then tap the back end of the bolt bar with a hammer, I used an M8 bolt to drive the bar into the body. Then just work back and forth a few times, and it should free up.
I’ve added replacement body and receiver with countersunk screw holes.
“sliding bolt receiver_csk.stl”
“sliding bolt body_csk.stl”
This is the sliding door bolt I made for my shed door.
The one in the picture is made from PLA, although ABS would probably be a better choice for outdoors.
I would probably recommend that the parts be made with at least 50% infill.
Assembly should be quite simple. first make sure the slot in the main body will allow the
sliding bolt shaft to slide freely and also check the shaft fits into the blind hole in the sliding bar.
I put a couple of drops of superglue in the hole in the bar, slotted the bar into the main body, lined the hole up with the slot and push the pin into place firmly.
Be careful not to get glue on the outside of the bar!
Please note that the sliding bar is deliberately over long to allow for expansion and contraction of the wood on my shed.
The inside of the main body may require a little cleanup after printing. I used a small wood chisel to clean out the top corners and a little filing around the slot.
I’ve added a picture of one of a couple I made 65% of original size, so I can say it works perfectly scaled down too.
Ethernet Cable Runners provide a simple solution to keep your Ethernet cables neat, under control and easy to access, insert and remove.
The range accommodates from 2 to 16 cables. Each slot only ever accepts up to 2 cables. This ensures you can easily access and remove inner cables…the maximum that can be outside it is one.
There are also three types. The standard type is for use unsecured along the floor or across a desk. The other two types have two types to secure the Ethernet Cable Runners with a cable / zip tie. Type “T” has the slot aligned inline with the cables direction. Type “T90” has the slot rotated 90 degrees from the cable direction. The slot is suitable for use with medium size cable ties. This allow bunches on cables to be run along under shelves / racking. Refer to the images for more information.
I have also provided a screw mounting version of the range at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1471789. This should make it easier for people to find the type best suited to the need.
They are all small blocks that print quickly so are an easy and cost effective solution to an everyday issue in offices and at home. Print lots and a range so you’ve always got the right one to fulfil your need at the time…. Tidy up your cables today!
And, if the cables you’re using vary from common size Ethernet cables, just uniformly scale them to suit.
Please refer to the images and print instructions for further information.
Note: If you like these check out the rest of my practical and fun designs. Other useful designs related to Cable Management are at the links below…
Cable Coiler – http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1764247
Cable Corners – http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1182945
Cable Manager – http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1107638
Ethernet Port Protector Plug – http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:685956
MakerBot Replicator (5th Generation)
Standard / 0.20mm
3 Shells / 50% infill / PLA recommended
To make sure these work well print them strong by using 3 shells and 50% infill. They work great in PLA. They should also print well in ABS.
If you find the cables you’re using vary from common size Ethernet cables, just uniformly scale them to suit.
Just remove the Raft and push in your cables….
Tell us more…
A Christmas print.
To decorate your house for the Christmas season we offer three jointed figures. They are printed at once without any additional support.
Have fun painting them!
witbox and Prusa Hephestos
if you want to paint, recommend printing to 0.1mm
To break the supports turns his head
Elf is necessary to first remove the supports of the chin, then turns his head
Painted with acrylic paint modeling
This is one of the most amazing statues in DC, the message conveyed is one of the strongest and the creativity by the sculptor should be applauded. Awesome scan, awesome print, I will be printing one myself to share with everyone who has not or cannot get to DC to see it. Bravo!